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Can you give me any ideas of what may be at fault. My local goodwrench service dealer has no idea what may be causing the problem and I am tired of paying them not to fix the problem.
#1996 HONDA ODYSSEY STOPS THEN STARTS RIGHT BACKUP CODE#
The only code that comes up is the faulty PRV. The dealer ship figures that the stalling and the PRV are two seperate issues. During idling the engine sputters and surges before it stalls. Stalling continues and now more often when idling, warm or cold. 2007 I replaced the battery and did a thourough cleaning of the battery terminals. 2007 dealership replaced ignition harness, and stalling continued. August 2007, Brought truck into dealership and they figured it was a weak fuel pump and was replaced, September 2007 stalling of engine continued. Stalling contiuned intermittently after replacement. April 2007, Stalling ocurrred at highway speeds (first time), diagnosis was faulty PRV and repaired. Aprill 2007, brought truck in for service and inspection, dealership repaired/replaced the folowing relevant items 1)transmission oil and filter change and flush 2) replace fuel filter 3) changed oil and filter 4)replaced spark plugs, 5)performed semi annual inspection 6)replaced lower intake gasket 7) replaced water pump 8)coolant system change and flush. The relevant service history is as follows. The dealership has replace the valve three times and have no idea what is causing the stall. However when I turn the engine off for thirty seconds than start it, the hard shift disappeears but the code remains. I have had this checked out by the dealer ship (GM Goodwrench) and it is a faulty Pressure regulating valve (PRV)in the transmission that is faulting. Immediately after the stall my transmission will shift hard going from second to third gear. I can start the engine right away and it runs perfectly until the next time it stalls. The idle stall has started in the colder months ( I live in Canada). My truck intermittently stalls while idiling, city speeds and at highway speeds. If you need to dig into your doors, dash or console, is the better choice because doesn’t any interior or exterior trim or body part removal.I own a 1998 GM Sierra 5.7L 2wd automatic. However, also includes disassembly instructions for interior trim panels and exterior items like headlights and tail lights. So you have to refer to the factory legends to learn the identification symbols and then refer back to circuit diagrams to find the splice and ground locations.
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, on the other hand, uses the factory diagrams. That saves a lot of time because you don’t have to refer back to the component locator or circuit locations. redraws factory wiring diagrams in color and includes the component, splice and ground locations right in their diagrams. Pricing: - 1 month subscription $19.95 per vehicle 1-year subscription $29.95 per vehicle 4-year subscription $44.95 per vehicle - 1-year $29.95 subscription: additional vehicles $19/95 each 5-year $49.95 subscription: additional vehicles $34.95 each Which one should YOU choose? If you’re tracking down a wiring issue, is the better choice. In most cases, their diagrams are right from the factory manuals. They include wiring diagrams and technical service bulletins.
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Get the BEST auto repair information and are professional-grade shop manuals-period. Power to the shift interlock solenoid is provided by Fuse #5 in the driver’s under-dash relay center. When the ECM/PCM sees that the transmission range selector is grounded (on the blue/black wire), it provides ground to the shift interlock solenoid. If the transmission range selector is in the PARK or Neutral position, the power will ground at ground point G101. At the same time, fuse #17 (7.5) in the driver’s under-dash relay center provides power to the transmission range selector through connector C101. The driver’s under-dash relay center sees brake pedal switch power coming in on the light green wire.
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When you apply the brake, power is switched to the ECM/PCM and to connector C304 via the light green wire. Here’s how the system works:įuse #10 (20A) in the underhood fuse box provides power to the brake pedal position switch on the red wire. Plus, if the shift mechanism isn’t fully in the park position, you may not be able to remove the key. The shift interlock system is designed to prevent shifting out of park unless your foot is on the brake. What to check when Honda won’t shift out of park Don’t rush out to replace the solenoid just yet. If your Honda won’t shift out of park, chances are the shift interlock solenoid isn’t working properly. Make and Model > Honda > Accord > Honda won’t shift out of park Honda won’t shift out of park